Everybody is Somebody in Luckenbach

Is Luckenbach a town, a dance hall, or a tourist attraction? Truth be told, it’s a little of all three. There is a general store and post office; a dance hall, consistently recognized as one of Texas’ top ten; and a kitschy landmark. Transcending all generalizations, Luckenbach is a county music gathering place.

We visited Luckenbach the afternoon before a music festival. Dozens of folks prepared for the thousands arriving later in the day. Directed to a field to park, we made our way past weathered-wood ticket booths and onto the grounds. To our left, nailed to a fence, we found the Luckenbach logo and infamous population sign, a popular photo spot. The population sign, Population 3, often goes missing, stolen by tourists wanting more than a picture to remind them of their visit. Leave the sign in place and buy your souvenirs from the general store, please.

Courtyard and outdoor stage

Behind the Luckenbach store you’ll find a courtyard with picnic tables, an outdoor stage, and a rooftop canopy formed by hundreds year-old oaks. This is the heart of the Luckenbach experience. The Picker Circle listed on Luckenbach’s calendar denotes free outdoor entertainment – offered most afternoons. Grab a beer and relax. Enjoy the music, dance, eat, and people watch.

I’m not sure what I enjoyed more – the music from the fiddler onstage or the diversity of people. Remember, Everybody is somebody in Luckenbach. Our fellow visitors included a septuagenarian couple swing dancing in newly purchased cowboy hats; weekend bikers in leathers and bandana doo-rags, and twenty-something women in Daisy Duke shorts and boots. It’s a relaxed, unpretentious vibe.

The Feed Lot serves typical hamburgers and hot dogs. To the left of the stage is a bar with a remarkable selection of beers, but bring cash (no credit cards).

Post office and hat shop

The post office is also the town general store. Here you get the flavor of a tourist spot with everything from t-shirts to drink ware to guitar picks all embossed with Luckenbach’s logo. With a nod to country music, you’ll also find a nice selection of country music CDs.

The Snail Creek Hat Company, located behind the store and next to the outdoor stage, offers a unique twist to the traditional western hat. Yes, you can buy the traditional felted hats, but the store specializes in the wide brim, palm leaf variety – half Panama and half cowboy hat.

History of Luckenbach

In the 1840s German farmers, including Jacob and August Luckenbach, settled the area. The town thrived with a cotton gin and dancehall until the turn of the twentieth century. The town declined in population and opportunity until the 1930s when the dancehall was rebuilt. That rebirth as short lived. By 1960, only about 50 people lived in Luckenbach. Modern day Luckenbach owes its reincarnation to John Russel (Hondo) Crouch. Hondo bought Luckenbach in 1971 and declared himself mayor of the town of three. A humorist and writer, he hosted a Luckenbach World Fair, a women-only chili cook off, and other quirky festivals. And it was Hondo who coined the phrase Everybody is somebody at Luckenbach. Waylon Jennings 1977 song, Luckenbach Texas, sealed the town’s fate as a national icon. Music legends like Willie Nelson and Lyle Lovett popularized the town as a country music destination.

If you go

Luckenbach is about 14 miles from Fredericksburg in Texas Hill Country. The physical address for your map app is 412 Luckenbach Town Loop, Fredericksburg. Most afternoons, you’ll find free country music entertainment on the outdoor stage. Because it is outdoors, weather may be a factor. The oak trees provide some cooling during hot Texas summers, though the ideal time to visit is in spring. Shows, festivals, and dances require tickets. Before you go, check the event calendar. The general store accepts credit cards, the outdoor bar does not.

 

Frisco Heritage Museum

Are you looking for a Sunday family outing? Start with a Texas history appetizer at Frisco Heritage Museum and finish with family dining at Babes Chicken Dinner House.

Frisco Heritage Museum

A covered wagon complete with prairie sound effects, a wall mural depicting historic cattle drives, and a section on king cotton are a few of the museum exhibits that walk us through North Texas history. On the second floor a frontier-styled house allow children to play and try their hand at pioneer chores. The museum shares its space with the Museum of the American Railroad who has a railroad section, while small, that provides a glimpse into train travel of yesteryear.

Third Sunday

The Frisco Heritage Center, located behind the museum, offers a collection of structures with their own story to tell. Normally, the buildings are closed, but on the third Sunday of each month, Frisco Heritage Center is open, free to the public. The afternoon includes events in the center’s vintage outbuildings. The North Texas Blacksmiths Association man Gabby’s Blacksmith conducting demonstrations throughout the afternoon. See smiths use forge and anvil to create nails and other objects, a crowd favorite with young scouts visiting the day of my visit. The Crozier-Sickles house, built in 1895, retains fixtures and furniture from the Crozier family. The old icebox in the kitchen and the hand-crank telephone contrast starkly to today’s refrigerators and smart phones. Other buildings include Lebanon Baptist Church (first built in 1883), a train depot, and a one-room schoolhouse replica.

Railways Replace Cattle Trails

In addition to gaining an appreciation of life and lifestyles of long ago, the museum and heritage center offers a look at the effects of progress. A perfect example is the fate of frontier town Lebanon, now just a footnote in Texas history books. At the turn of the twentieth century, railways replaced cattle trails as the center for local commerce. On the old Chisholm Trail, Lebanon found itself a little over four miles from the new railway. Today, that seems a short distance but, back in 1902, it was far enough for folks to leave Lebanon and create Emerson, a new town closer to the railroad. A few years later Emerson would be renamed Frisco in honor of the company, St. Louis – San Francisco Rail Line, that precipitated the city’s birth. In February, the Frisco Heritage Museum will open a temporary exhibit on forgotten towns such as Lebanon.

Babes Chicken Dinner House

When you’ve had your fill of Frisco history, step next door to locally famous Babes Chicken Dinner House. It’s setting, down-home country, is the perfect place to end the afternoon. Babes offers good ol’ comfort food like country fried steak and chicken, with sides served family style.

When you go

Frisco Heritage Museum (6455 Page Street, Frisco) is open Wednesday through Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm, and on Sunday from 1 to 5 pm. Admission is $8 for a family, adults $4, and children just $2. The best time to visit the museum is on the third Sunday of each month with free access to the Heritage Center.

Babes Chicken Dinner House (6475 Page Street) is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. A children’s menu is available.

 

Fun Fact: Did you know that a bale of cotton weighs five hundred pounds? Frisco’s last cotton gin closed in 1976.

Stonehenge II in Texas Hill Country

What do Stonehenge, Easter Island, and Texas Hill Country have in common? A visit to Hill Country Arts Foundation in Ingram, Texas, solves that mystery. There you’ll find a Stonehenge and two Easter Island Moai head replicas. The structures are the work of two Hill Country residents, Al Shepperd and Doug Hill.

Stonehenge II and Moai heads

Neighbors, the two men hatched the plan to build a Stonehenge replica in 1989. Using steel frames, plaster and metal mesh, they built a scaled version (about 90 percent the height and 60 percent the width) of the famous Stonehenge circle on Shepperd’s ranch. It took them just nine months to construct the monument. A few years later they fabricated two Moai heads following a trip Shepperd made to Easter Island. For years, tourists flocked to Hunt to see the oddities.

Current location

Stonehenge II and the Moai heads found a new home in 2010 on the grounds of the Hill Country Arts Foundation in Ingram. I have to say, this location is perfect. The Moai heads flank a dirt pathway leading through a meadow to Stonehenge II. It’s a bucolic spot, with the Guadalupe River just off to the left.

Admission to the site is free, but the photographic opportunity is priceless.

Encore

I recommend you visit Stonehenge II about lunchtime. Why? Co-located on the art foundation property is a delightful little restaurant, Encore. The restaurant offers home-style lunches six days a week (closed Mondays). The restaurant has an outdoor deck that overlooks the Guadalupe River. We lunched there during our visit and were pleasantly surprised by the freshness of the cuisine and friendliness of the service. They also proffer an amazing selection of craft beers.

Blue Topaz

If you’re in the market for unique, fine jewelry, you’ll find it in Ingram. Just down the road from Stonehenge II is Gems of Hill Country. The jeweler Diane Eames and her partner Brad Hodges offer lone star cut (that’s the cut with the embedded five-pointed Texas star), blue topaz jewelry. Blue topaz is the official state gem of Texas and found only in the Mason area. The stone is usually clear, but you can also find blue variations. The more intense the blue, the more valuable the stone. Eames is a true artist. The stones she cuts are breathtakingly beautiful. Prices begin in the $200 range and go up from there.

When you go

Stonehenge II (120 Point Theatre Road South, Ingram) is in a field. As such, it’s accessible seven days a week. Encore (122 Point Theatre Road South, Ingram) is open for lunch 11 am to 2 pm Tuesdays through Sundays. And Gems of the Hill Country (200 Highway 39, Ingram) is open by appointment (phone (830)-367-3368).

 

It’s Bluebonnet Time

You don’t have to travel to Texas Hill Country to find bluebonnets. Roadways and Zion Cemetery (800x599)parks near Dallas offer plenty of springtime blooms including fields of bluebonnets! The Facebook page, Bluebonnet Love, is a great resource for finding bluebonnets in your area. My go-to places for local bluebonnets couldn’t be more different: one is a park on the Southern Methodist University (SMU) campus and the other is an old pioneer cemetery.

In the Heart of the City

The best Dallas wildflower viewing may just be at SMU and the George W. Bush Presidential Center. A 15-acre urban park planted with native prairie grasses and wildflowers forms a semi-circle around the back of the Presidential Center. Not only will you find bluebonnets, but also dusty pink carpets of evening primrose, brilliant reds and yellows of firewheel, and magenta wine cup. Benches scattered around the garden make for an ideal spot to stop and enjoy the magnificent spring display.

The park is open sunrise to sunset. There is a fee for touring the Presidential Center, but entry to the attached park is free. The George W. Bush Presidential Center is at 2943 SMU Blvd, Dallas. For more information, contact the center at (214) 200-4300 or visit their website.

Half Forgotten Zion Cemetery

A hillside covered in bluebonnets is stunning. And that’s what you’ll see at Zion Cemetery – a hillside awash in blue. At the height of the season, this sleepy little cemetery becomes a parking lot with hundreds vying for that perfect snapshot of the kids in the flowers. I’ve even seen an industrious photographer lug a Victorian chaise lounge onto the hillside to capture just the right photo!

Alas, the pastures that once surrounded the cemetery are gone, making way for new housing developments. Still, this is a safe, off-the-road location to take a family photo in the flowers. Zion Cemetery is located on Farm to Market (FM) 423 between Eldorado Parkway and State Highway 380i in Little Elm.

Fair Park Art Deco

Fair Park 4 (800x600)Fair Park is one of Dallas’ most beautiful locations and also one of its most overlooked. If you are like most Dallas residents, you visit Fair Park only once a year during the Texas State Fair. Yet this 227-acre park is open year round. On a sunny day, I find the art and architectural at Fair Park simply breathtaking.

Art Deco Nirvana

The site of the 1936 Texas Centennial and World’s Fair, Fair Park retains many of its historical Art Deco buildings. The park purports to have the largest collection of Art Deco buildings, art, and sculpture – I believe them.

The Esplanade

The area surrounding the Esplanade showcase stunning Art Deco examples. Massive Fair Park 2 (800x600)porticos at the Automobile Building and Centennial Hall frame six statues. Each statue represents a nation who, at one time, controlled Texas. Designed by Carlo Ciampaglia (Centennial Hall) and Pierre Bourdelle (Automobile Building), the statues bear the classical look of Greek goddesses. Fair Park 3 (800x600)Reliefs on Centennial Hall continue the mythological theme and mix seamlessly with the modernistic murals of industry at the Automobile Building. Recently recreated fountain statues of The Tenor and The Contralto, add another exciting note to the whole Art Deco immersion.

Fair Park cell phone tour

You won’t find much in the way of descriptive placards around any of this fabulous art and architecture. Thankfully, there is a self-guided, cell phone tour available to provide details about art and artists. To access the tour, dial (214) 736-2913 and then follow the phone instructions.

Worth the look

While at Fair Park, be sure to visit the Hall of State and the African American Museum. Both attractions are free.

When you go.

Fair Park is at 1200 Second Avenue, in Dallas. Gate 3 provides parking closest to the Esplanade. Entry to Fair Park (and parking) is free except during the State Fair. You can also get to Fair Park using DART (Dallas Area Rapid Transit) – take the green line to the Fair Park station.