National Museum of the Pacific War

The National Museum of the Pacific War is a must see for World War II history buffs and veterans’ families. This world class museum is located not in Pearl Harbor, but in landlocked Fredericksburg, Texas. Surprising, until you learn that Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz was born in this Texas Hill Country town.

The museum boasts an expansive, six-acre campus in the heart of Fredericksburg. The Pacific wartime story is deftly told in artifacts, memorabilia, photographs, and video. Unlike other World War II museums, the National Museum of the Pacific War devotes considerable exhibit space to set the historic stage describing Russian, Japanese, Chinese, and American actions that led to war’s outbreak.

George H. W. Bush Gallery

From the famous the Doolittle Raid to the obscure Operation “Good Time,” each Pacific campaign is described in exacting detail. “Toe Nail” gets my vote for the most interesting titled operation. News clips interspersed with veteran interviews describe actual battles.  Diaries, uniforms, pictures, propaganda posters are all there. This multi-media approach makes what would otherwise be a history lesson into an emotion-packed, personal experience. And touch-screens allow visitors to learn even more.

In addition to smaller artifacts, the National Museum of the Pacific War houses large items like a Wildcat F4F and the two-man Japanese midget submarine grounded on Oahu following the Pearl Harbor attack. For Oppenheimer movie fans, “Little Boy” bomb casing is part of the museum’s permanent collection.

The Admiral Nimitz Gallery

Recently renovated and expanded in 2020, the Admiral Nimitz Gallery tells the story of the World War II Commander of the Pacific Fleet, Chester Nimitz. Learn how a Fredericksburg farm boy who wanted to go to West Point became one of our nation’s greatest admirals.

Pacific Combat Zone

The Pacific Combat Zone, located a few blocks from the main museum campus, is the site of a PT boat exhibit. The museum also offers living history programs here. Reenactments highlight Medal of Honor recipients and give visitors an appreciation of the heroism of Sailors and Marines in the Pacific. A schedule for the reenactments can be found on the museum’s events page. Please note that reenactments do involve explosions and simulated fire, and may not be appropriate for all visitors.

Memorial Courtyard

Maybe it’s because so many of our World War II veterans are no longer with us. Whatever the reason, I found the Memorial Courtyard particularly poignant. This outdoor area is framed by a limestone wall covered in commemorative plaques honoring wartime veterans. Families and veteran groups sponsored the plaques and brick pavers here. It’s a reminder, lest we forget, of the men and women veterans who sacrificed so much.

The National Museum of the Pacific War provides an objective, and sometimes jarring, experience of the Pacific theater in wartime. It’s a story filled with sacrifice, heroism, and even brutality. Museums like the National Museum of the Pacific War keep history and the lessons it teaches alive so we do not repeat the mistakes of the past. 

When You Go

The National Museum of the Pacific War is located at 311 East Austin Street in Fredericksburg. The museum is open 9 am to 5 pm Wednesday through Monday (closed Tuesdays). Allow at least three hours for your visit. There is an admission charge. Museum exhibits are appropriate for older children. While the main exhibits may not interest young kids, the museum does offer a free exhibit, Children on the Homefront. Designed for elementary-aged children, the exhibits depict what life would have been like for kids during the war years. 

For those wanting to continue their World War II experience, I recommend a stay at the Hangar Hotel (155 Airport Road, Fredericksburg). A converted hangar on the edge of Gillespie County Airport houses this elegantly simple hotel. Staying at the Hangar Hotel is like stepping back in time to a World War II Bachelor Officer Quarters. Rooms are furnished in rusty reds, mossy greens and rich browns. There is even a green, wool army blanket on the bed. The room television is the only concession to the twenty-first century.  Advance reservations are a must at the Hangar Hotel.

Everybody is Somebody in Luckenbach

Is Luckenbach a town, a dance hall, or a tourist attraction? Truth be told, it’s a little of all three. There is a general store and post office; a dance hall, consistently recognized as one of Texas’ top ten; and a kitschy landmark. Transcending all generalizations, Luckenbach is a county music gathering place.

We visited Luckenbach the afternoon before a music festival. Dozens of folks prepared for the thousands arriving later in the day. Directed to a field to park, we made our way past weathered-wood ticket booths and onto the grounds. To our left, nailed to a fence, we found the Luckenbach logo and infamous population sign, a popular photo spot. The population sign, Population 3, often goes missing, stolen by tourists wanting more than a picture to remind them of their visit. Leave the sign in place and buy your souvenirs from the general store, please.

Courtyard and outdoor stage

Behind the Luckenbach store you’ll find a courtyard with picnic tables, an outdoor stage, and a rooftop canopy formed by hundreds year-old oaks. This is the heart of the Luckenbach experience. The Picker Circle listed on Luckenbach’s calendar denotes free outdoor entertainment – offered most afternoons. Grab a beer and relax. Enjoy the music, dance, eat, and people watch.

I’m not sure what I enjoyed more – the music from the fiddler onstage or the diversity of people. Remember, Everybody is somebody in Luckenbach. Our fellow visitors included a septuagenarian couple swing dancing in newly purchased cowboy hats; weekend bikers in leathers and bandana doo-rags, and twenty-something women in Daisy Duke shorts and boots. It’s a relaxed, unpretentious vibe.

The Feed Lot serves typical hamburgers and hot dogs. To the left of the stage is a bar with a remarkable selection of beers, but bring cash (no credit cards).

Post office and hat shop

The post office is also the town general store. Here you get the flavor of a tourist spot with everything from t-shirts to drink ware to guitar picks all embossed with Luckenbach’s logo. With a nod to country music, you’ll also find a nice selection of country music CDs.

The Snail Creek Hat Company, located behind the store and next to the outdoor stage, offers a unique twist to the traditional western hat. Yes, you can buy the traditional felted hats, but the store specializes in the wide brim, palm leaf variety – half Panama and half cowboy hat.

History of Luckenbach

In the 1840s German farmers, including Jacob and August Luckenbach, settled the area. The town thrived with a cotton gin and dancehall until the turn of the twentieth century. The town declined in population and opportunity until the 1930s when the dancehall was rebuilt. That rebirth as short lived. By 1960, only about 50 people lived in Luckenbach. Modern day Luckenbach owes its reincarnation to John Russel (Hondo) Crouch. Hondo bought Luckenbach in 1971 and declared himself mayor of the town of three. A humorist and writer, he hosted a Luckenbach World Fair, a women-only chili cook off, and other quirky festivals. And it was Hondo who coined the phrase Everybody is somebody at Luckenbach. Waylon Jennings 1977 song, Luckenbach Texas, sealed the town’s fate as a national icon. Music legends like Willie Nelson and Lyle Lovett popularized the town as a country music destination.

If you go

Luckenbach is about 14 miles from Fredericksburg in Texas Hill Country. The physical address for your map app is 412 Luckenbach Town Loop, Fredericksburg. Most afternoons, you’ll find free country music entertainment on the outdoor stage. Because it is outdoors, weather may be a factor. The oak trees provide some cooling during hot Texas summers, though the ideal time to visit is in spring. Shows, festivals, and dances require tickets. Before you go, check the event calendar. The general store accepts credit cards, the outdoor bar does not.

 

Historic Washington State Park

Historic Washington State Park transports visitors to the past when great western pioneers like Sam Houston and Davy Crockett traveled the Southwest Trail. It’s a hidden gem just twenty minutes off Interstate-30 in Arkansas.

Frontier history 

Originally just a supply depot along the Southwest Trail, Washington grew into a major town in the 1830’s. In its heyday, the town boasted sixteen doctors, as many lawyers, and three hotel keepers along with a host of craftsman and merchants – impressive for a frontier settlement.

Historic Washington State Park captures the town’s golden age — 1830 through 1880 — with its living history exhibits and reenactments. Over a dozen buildings have been restored including the 1836 Courthouse that served as Arkansas’ State Capital during the Civil War; a tavern purportedly where Houston, Crockett, and Austin planned the liberation of Texas from Mexico; Greek-Revival styled homes built in the mid 1800s; and even a log home circa 1835. Other buildings like the blacksmith shop are reconstructions.

The tour

The 1874 Hempstead County Courthouse houses the park visitor center. For a nominal fee visitors walk through town where costumed docents at each building bring history to life with stories of Washington’s past. Not all buildings are open each day, but you will be able to tour several of the historic structures.

  • The 1920 Print Museum is a favorite with its functioning antique printing press. First published in Washington in 1839 the Washington Telegraph is the oldest, continuously published weekly newspaper in Arkansas.
  • The legendary Bowie knife was made by Washington resident James Black, a silversmith, for frontiersman James Bowie. Tour the blacksmith to learn more.
  • Those interested in antique weapons will want to visit the B.W. Edwards Weapons Museum. Housed in the Old Bank Building, over 600 historic rifles and pistols are on display.
  • Other historic buildings provide visitors with a glimpse into everyday life. Homes of prominent Washington residents are furnished as they would have been in the mid 1800’s.

Allow at least three hours for the walking tour.

Annual highlights

A favorite time to visit the park is in March when thousands of naturalized jonquils create yellow flowering carpets throughout the town.  The park’s Jonquil Festival, a three-day event with craft fair, is in mid-March. Historic Washington State Park hosts several reenactments throughout the year including a Civil War weekend in November. And the park year culminates with its December Christmas and Candlelight weekends.

When you go

Historic Washington State Park is located eight miles northwest of Hope, Ark., on Highway 278. The park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Before you leave the park, be sure to dine at Williams’ Tavern Restaurant. Located in an historic 1832 building, Williams’ Tavern serves southern food at affordable prices. The restaurant is on the grounds and open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m.

Tip

For those wanting a longer visit, Hope offers numerous lodging options. Add nearby Crater of the Diamonds to your itinerary for a fun-packed weekend.

Diamond Hunting in Arkansas

Prospectors, young and old, find treasures at Crater of the Diamonds State Park in Murfreesboro. The park is the only diamond mine open to the public – and the best part – you keep whatever you unearth.

The Mine

Don’t be disappointed by your first glimpse at the diamond mine. Outwardly, it looks like a plowed farmer’s field. Appearances are deceiving. Hidden among the dirt furrows are diamond, agate, jasper, and quartz.

Diamond hunting can be surprisingly easy. Most gems found are small, about the size of a pea, and are less than a carat. The best diamond hunting is on a sunny day following a heavy rainstorm. The rain washes the dirt from the denser diamonds and the sunshine signals the hunter by reflecting off the diamond’s surface. In these conditions, diamonds can actually be found by simply walking the rows of plowed dirt.

Serious miners employ a more strenuous method to find their gems. Prospectors haul buckets filled with dirt to a washing area. Park regulars use water to sluice dirt away from the stones and then sift through the remaining gravel in search of diamonds. With the right rhythm, the dense diamonds settle to the sluicing pan’s bottom separating out from the washed away dirt. This is hard work but fun to try. The park has two covered washing sheds for water sifting. It’s a lively place with fellow diamond hunters readily helping each other by offering tips and assistance to novice treasure seekers.

Some diamond hunters use a third method to find the elusive stones. Divining a likely spot, they plop down in the field and dry sift the soil. This method appears to be most fun for the youngest treasure seekers. Kids love to dig and here they are in their element.

Geology and history

How did diamonds end up in this Arkansas field? About 100 million years ago, a volcanic pipe shot diamonds and other geological wonders from deep within the earth’s mantle to the surface forming the Prairie Creek Diatreme. Traveling at speeds from 60 to 250 miles an hour, volcanic pipes pushed earth up and out to the surface, mixing magma with rock and minerals in its path.

At Crater of the Diamonds, the diamonds lost 60 to 80 percent of their size during their trip through the earth’s crust when they mixed with the hot, molten magma.  Still, over the years there have been incredible finds. Discovered in 1924, the Uncle Sam diamond registered 40 carats. And in 1975, Mr. Johnson unearthed a 16 carat diamond, the Amarillo Starlight.

The first diamonds were discovered by John Huddleston, a local farmer in 1906. Commercial attempts to mine the diamonds did not succeed and in 1972 the State of Arkansas bought the property for a park. Since that time, over 2.8 million people visited and left with about 28,700 diamonds – that is roughly 600 diamonds a year. Not bad odds for treasure seekers.

More than diamonds

Even without a diamond, families can return home with treasures. Huge Jasper chunks litter the mine field with spots of red and burnished orange color. Lamproite with gold streaks of mica and translucent agate wait to be discovered. Visitors can remove one, five-gallon bucket of rock and soil each day. Following several visits to the Crater of the Diamonds, our family has an astoundingly colorful rock collection of personal finds.

Planning your visit

The park website offers tips for planning your mining expedition. Recommend wearing old clothes and boots as the field is often muddy. If you intend to wet sift for diamonds, bring rubber gloves. The park rents prospecting gear like sifting screens and hand trowels for a nominal fee. I suggest, however, that you bring your own bucket for transporting treasures home. Sandwich baggies are handy for keeping small stones from getting lost. Without shade trees, hats and sun screen are a must during summer months.

When you go

Crater of the Diamonds State Park (209 State Park Road, Murfreesboro) is open daily, with times varying by season. Entrance to the park is free, but there is a fee to access the diamond field. The park has tent and RV camping spots. The Queen of Diamonds Inn, located in nearby Murfreesboro, offers clean and comfortable rooms, or travel to either nearby Hope or Akadelphia for a wider selection of lodging.

So pack the kids and head out for a weekend treasure hunt. Maybe you will be next to discover a diamond.

Stonehenge II in Texas Hill Country

What do Stonehenge, Easter Island, and Texas Hill Country have in common? A visit to Hill Country Arts Foundation in Ingram, Texas, solves that mystery. There you’ll find a Stonehenge and two Easter Island Moai head replicas. The structures are the work of two Hill Country residents, Al Shepperd and Doug Hill.

Stonehenge II and Moai heads

Neighbors, the two men hatched the plan to build a Stonehenge replica in 1989. Using steel frames, plaster and metal mesh, they built a scaled version (about 90 percent the height and 60 percent the width) of the famous Stonehenge circle on Shepperd’s ranch. It took them just nine months to construct the monument. A few years later they fabricated two Moai heads following a trip Shepperd made to Easter Island. For years, tourists flocked to Hunt to see the oddities.

Current location

Stonehenge II and the Moai heads found a new home in 2010 on the grounds of the Hill Country Arts Foundation in Ingram. I have to say, this location is perfect. The Moai heads flank a dirt pathway leading through a meadow to Stonehenge II. It’s a bucolic spot, with the Guadalupe River just off to the left.

Admission to the site is free, but the photographic opportunity is priceless.

Encore

I recommend you visit Stonehenge II about lunchtime. Why? Co-located on the art foundation property is a delightful little restaurant, Encore. The restaurant offers home-style lunches six days a week (closed Mondays). The restaurant has an outdoor deck that overlooks the Guadalupe River. We lunched there during our visit and were pleasantly surprised by the freshness of the cuisine and friendliness of the service. They also proffer an amazing selection of craft beers.

Blue Topaz

If you’re in the market for unique, fine jewelry, you’ll find it in Ingram. Just down the road from Stonehenge II is Gems of Hill Country. The jeweler Diane Eames and her partner Brad Hodges offer lone star cut (that’s the cut with the embedded five-pointed Texas star), blue topaz jewelry. Blue topaz is the official state gem of Texas and found only in the Mason area. The stone is usually clear, but you can also find blue variations. The more intense the blue, the more valuable the stone. Eames is a true artist. The stones she cuts are breathtakingly beautiful. Prices begin in the $200 range and go up from there.

When you go

Stonehenge II (120 Point Theatre Road South, Ingram) is in a field. As such, it’s accessible seven days a week. Encore (122 Point Theatre Road South, Ingram) is open for lunch 11 am to 2 pm Tuesdays through Sundays. And Gems of the Hill Country (200 Highway 39, Ingram) is open by appointment (phone (830)-367-3368).