Category Archives: Texas History

Everybody is Somebody in Luckenbach

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Is Luckenbach a town, a dance hall, or a tourist attraction? Truth be told, it’s a little of all three. There is a general store and post office; a dance hall, consistently recognized as one of Texas’ top ten; and a kitschy landmark. Transcending all generalizations, Luckenbach is a county music gathering place.

We visited Luckenbach the afternoon before a music festival. Dozens of folks prepared for the thousands arriving later in the day. Directed to a field to park, we made our way past weathered-wood ticket booths and onto the grounds. To our left, nailed to a fence, we found the Luckenbach logo and infamous population sign, a popular photo spot. The population sign, Population 3, often goes missing, stolen by tourists wanting more than a picture to remind them of their visit. Leave the sign in place and buy your souvenirs from the general store, please.

Courtyard and outdoor stage

Behind the Luckenbach store you’ll find a courtyard with picnic tables, an outdoor stage, and a rooftop canopy formed by hundreds year-old oaks. This is the heart of the Luckenbach experience. The Picker Circle listed on Luckenbach’s calendar denotes free outdoor entertainment – offered most afternoons. Grab a beer and relax. Enjoy the music, dance, eat, and people watch.

I’m not sure what I enjoyed more – the music from the fiddler onstage or the diversity of people. Remember, Everybody is somebody in Luckenbach. Our fellow visitors included a septuagenarian couple swing dancing in newly purchased cowboy hats; weekend bikers in leathers and bandana doo-rags, and twenty-something women in Daisy Duke shorts and boots. It’s a relaxed, unpretentious vibe.

The Feed Lot serves typical hamburgers and hot dogs. To the left of the stage is a bar with a remarkable selection of beers, but bring cash (no credit cards).

Post office and hat shop

The post office is also the town general store. Here you get the flavor of a tourist spot with everything from t-shirts to drink ware to guitar picks all embossed with Luckenbach’s logo. With a nod to country music, you’ll also find a nice selection of country music CDs.

The Snail Creek Hat Company, located behind the store and next to the outdoor stage, offers a unique twist to the traditional western hat. Yes, you can buy the traditional felted hats, but the store specializes in the wide brim, palm leaf variety – half Panama and half cowboy hat.

History of Luckenbach

In the 1840s German farmers, including Jacob and August Luckenbach, settled the area. The town thrived with a cotton gin and dancehall until the turn of the twentieth century. The town declined in population and opportunity until the 1930s when the dancehall was rebuilt. That rebirth as short lived. By 1960, only about 50 people lived in Luckenbach. Modern day Luckenbach owes its reincarnation to John Russel (Hondo) Crouch. Hondo bought Luckenbach in 1971 and declared himself mayor of the town of three. A humorist and writer, he hosted a Luckenbach World Fair, a women-only chili cook off, and other quirky festivals. And it was Hondo who coined the phrase Everybody is somebody at Luckenbach. Waylon Jennings 1977 song, Luckenbach Texas, sealed the town’s fate as a national icon. Music legends like Willie Nelson and Lyle Lovett popularized the town as a country music destination.

If you go

Luckenbach is about 14 miles from Fredericksburg in Texas Hill Country. The physical address for your map app is 412 Luckenbach Town Loop, Fredericksburg. Most afternoons, you’ll find free country music entertainment on the outdoor stage. Because it is outdoors, weather may be a factor. The oak trees provide some cooling during hot Texas summers, though the ideal time to visit is in spring. Shows, festivals, and dances require tickets. Before you go, check the event calendar. The general store accepts credit cards, the outdoor bar does not.

 

Historic Washington State Park

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Historic Washington State Park transports visitors to the past when great western pioneers like Sam Houston and Davy Crockett traveled the Southwest Trail. It’s a hidden gem just twenty minutes off Interstate-30 in Arkansas.

Frontier history 

Originally just a supply depot along the Southwest Trail, Washington grew into a major town in the 1830’s. In its heyday, the town boasted sixteen doctors, as many lawyers, and three hotel keepers along with a host of craftsman and merchants – impressive for a frontier settlement.

Historic Washington State Park captures the town’s golden age — 1830 through 1880 — with its living history exhibits and reenactments. Over a dozen buildings have been restored including the 1836 Courthouse that served as Arkansas’ State Capital during the Civil War; a tavern purportedly where Houston, Crockett, and Austin planned the liberation of Texas from Mexico; Greek-Revival styled homes built in the mid 1800s; and even a log home circa 1835. Other buildings like the blacksmith shop are reconstructions.

The tour

The 1874 Hempstead County Courthouse houses the park visitor center. For a nominal fee visitors walk through town where costumed docents at each building bring history to life with stories of Washington’s past. Not all buildings are open each day, but you will be able to tour several of the historic structures.

  • The 1920 Print Museum is a favorite with its functioning antique printing press. First published in Washington in 1839 the Washington Telegraph is the oldest, continuously published weekly newspaper in Arkansas.
  • The legendary Bowie knife was made by Washington resident James Black, a silversmith, for frontiersman James Bowie. Tour the blacksmith to learn more.
  • Those interested in antique weapons will want to visit the B.W. Edwards Weapons Museum. Housed in the Old Bank Building, over 600 historic rifles and pistols are on display.
  • Other historic buildings provide visitors with a glimpse into everyday life. Homes of prominent Washington residents are furnished as they would have been in the mid 1800’s.

Allow at least three hours for the walking tour.

Annual highlights

A favorite time to visit the park is in March when thousands of naturalized jonquils create yellow flowering carpets throughout the town.  The park’s Jonquil Festival, a three-day event with craft fair, is in mid-March. Historic Washington State Park hosts several reenactments throughout the year including a Civil War weekend in November. And the park year culminates with its December Christmas and Candlelight weekends.

When you go

Historic Washington State Park is located eight miles northwest of Hope, Ark., on Highway 278. The park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Before you leave the park, be sure to dine at Williams’ Tavern Restaurant. Located in an historic 1832 building, Williams’ Tavern serves southern food at affordable prices. The restaurant is on the grounds and open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m.

Tip

For those wanting a longer visit, Hope offers numerous lodging options. Add nearby Crater of the Diamonds to your itinerary for a fun-packed weekend.

Frisco Heritage Museum

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Are you looking for a Sunday family outing? Start with a Texas history appetizer at Frisco Heritage Museum and finish with family dining at Babes Chicken Dinner House.

Frisco Heritage Museum

A covered wagon complete with prairie sound effects, a wall mural depicting historic cattle drives, and a section on king cotton are a few of the museum exhibits that walk us through North Texas history. On the second floor a frontier-styled house allow children to play and try their hand at pioneer chores. The museum shares its space with the Museum of the American Railroad who has a railroad section, while small, that provides a glimpse into train travel of yesteryear.

Third Sunday

The Frisco Heritage Center, located behind the museum, offers a collection of structures with their own story to tell. Normally, the buildings are closed, but on the third Sunday of each month, Frisco Heritage Center is open, free to the public. The afternoon includes events in the center’s vintage outbuildings. The North Texas Blacksmiths Association man Gabby’s Blacksmith conducting demonstrations throughout the afternoon. See smiths use forge and anvil to create nails and other objects, a crowd favorite with young scouts visiting the day of my visit. The Crozier-Sickles house, built in 1895, retains fixtures and furniture from the Crozier family. The old icebox in the kitchen and the hand-crank telephone contrast starkly to today’s refrigerators and smart phones. Other buildings include Lebanon Baptist Church (first built in 1883), a train depot, and a one-room schoolhouse replica.

Railways Replace Cattle Trails

In addition to gaining an appreciation of life and lifestyles of long ago, the museum and heritage center offers a look at the effects of progress. A perfect example is the fate of frontier town Lebanon, now just a footnote in Texas history books. At the turn of the twentieth century, railways replaced cattle trails as the center for local commerce. On the old Chisholm Trail, Lebanon found itself a little over four miles from the new railway. Today, that seems a short distance but, back in 1902, it was far enough for folks to leave Lebanon and create Emerson, a new town closer to the railroad. A few years later Emerson would be renamed Frisco in honor of the company, St. Louis – San Francisco Rail Line, that precipitated the city’s birth. In February, the Frisco Heritage Museum will open a temporary exhibit on forgotten towns such as Lebanon.

Babes Chicken Dinner House

When you’ve had your fill of Frisco history, step next door to locally famous Babes Chicken Dinner House. It’s setting, down-home country, is the perfect place to end the afternoon. Babes offers good ol’ comfort food like country fried steak and chicken, with sides served family style.

When you go

Frisco Heritage Museum (6455 Page Street, Frisco) is open Wednesday through Saturday from 10 am to 5 pm, and on Sunday from 1 to 5 pm. Admission is $8 for a family, adults $4, and children just $2. The best time to visit the museum is on the third Sunday of each month with free access to the Heritage Center.

Babes Chicken Dinner House (6475 Page Street) is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner. A children’s menu is available.

 

Fun Fact: Did you know that a bale of cotton weighs five hundred pounds? Frisco’s last cotton gin closed in 1976.

Stonehenge II in Texas Hill Country

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What do Stonehenge, Easter Island, and Texas Hill Country have in common? A visit to Hill Country Arts Foundation in Ingram, Texas, solves that mystery. There you’ll find a Stonehenge and two Easter Island Moai head replicas. The structures are the work of two Hill Country residents, Al Shepperd and Doug Hill.

Stonehenge II and Moai heads

Neighbors, the two men hatched the plan to build a Stonehenge replica in 1989. Using steel frames, plaster and metal mesh, they built a scaled version (about 90 percent the height and 60 percent the width) of the famous Stonehenge circle on Shepperd’s ranch. It took them just nine months to construct the monument. A few years later they fabricated two Moai heads following a trip Shepperd made to Easter Island. For years, tourists flocked to Hunt to see the oddities.

Current location

Stonehenge II and the Moai heads found a new home in 2010 on the grounds of the Hill Country Arts Foundation in Ingram. I have to say, this location is perfect. The Moai heads flank a dirt pathway leading through a meadow to Stonehenge II. It’s a bucolic spot, with the Guadalupe River just off to the left.

Admission to the site is free, but the photographic opportunity is priceless.

Encore

I recommend you visit Stonehenge II about lunchtime. Why? Co-located on the art foundation property is a delightful little restaurant, Encore. The restaurant offers home-style lunches six days a week (closed Mondays). The restaurant has an outdoor deck that overlooks the Guadalupe River. We lunched there during our visit and were pleasantly surprised by the freshness of the cuisine and friendliness of the service. They also proffer an amazing selection of craft beers.

Blue Topaz

If you’re in the market for unique, fine jewelry, you’ll find it in Ingram. Just down the road from Stonehenge II is Gems of Hill Country. The jeweler Diane Eames and her partner Brad Hodges offer lone star cut (that’s the cut with the embedded five-pointed Texas star), blue topaz jewelry. Blue topaz is the official state gem of Texas and found only in the Mason area. The stone is usually clear, but you can also find blue variations. The more intense the blue, the more valuable the stone. Eames is a true artist. The stones she cuts are breathtakingly beautiful. Prices begin in the $200 range and go up from there.

When you go

Stonehenge II (120 Point Theatre Road South, Ingram) is in a field. As such, it’s accessible seven days a week. Encore (122 Point Theatre Road South, Ingram) is open for lunch 11 am to 2 pm Tuesdays through Sundays. And Gems of the Hill Country (200 Highway 39, Ingram) is open by appointment (phone (830)-367-3368).

 

Roses and Tigers inTyler

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This weekend, Tyler celebrates its 83rd Rose Festival with a parade, rose show, arts and crafts fair, and guided rose garden tours. If you visit Tyler, be sure to stop by the Tiger Creek Wildlife Refuge and support this nonprofit that provides a home to rescued big cats.

Tyler and roses

Nicknamed the Rose Capital, Tyler’s agricultural industry shifted from growing peaches to roses in the 1920s. By World War II, Tyler grew over half of the rosebushes sold in the United States. Tyler’s market share has decreased to about 15 percent, however, roses remain a major, area industry. Each October, Tyler celebrates its rose history with the Texas Rose Festival. The Tyler Rose Museum, open year round, tells the region’s story with rose festival memorabilia, video, and a computerized catalog of 250 rose varieties.

Tyler Municipal Rose Garden

The garden is at its height during the month of October. You’ll find 500 different rose varieties with fanciful names like Cinderella’s Song, Summer Wind, and Freckles. The rose garden contains over 38,000 rose bushes. I also recommend visiting in early spring when the garden is ablaze with blooming azalea displays in pink, salmon, magenta and red.

Tiger Creek

Located just outside Tyler, Tiger Creek Wildlife Refuge’s stated purpose is “to provide rescue and rehabilitation to big cats that have been abused, neglected, or displaced.” The tiger-creek-800x800refuge spans 150 acres and houses over 40 big cats from tiger to bobcat. Several of the cats were victims of the exotic pet trade of the 1990s. Some cats were relocated when other refuges closed. And many of the cats have physical problems, like Babs. A bobcat, Babs is blind, most probably due to poor nutrition when he was kept as a pet.

Each big cat has its own story. There is a tiger rescued from a man who abused her and had her fight dogs when she was a cub. The tiger, Sierra, was once owned by Michael Jackson. Then there is Tin Cup, a mountain lion. A farmer’s dog brought the cub (the size of a tin cup) to a farmhouse porch in New Mexico. Efforts to locate Tin Cup’s mother failed, so the farmer contacted Tiger Creek. Tin Cup, a handsome, playful, and photogenic cat, is my family’s favorite.

When you go

The Texas Rose Festival is October 13 through 16. Most events are free. Both the Tyler Rose Museum (420 Rose Park Drive) and the Tyler Municipal Rose Garden (624 North Broadway) are open year round.

Tiger Creek Wildlife Refuge (17552 FM 14) is open most days. While more expensive, I strongly recommend the guided tour, or the combo tour. The docents are extremely knowledgeable about the cats and their stories.