Old Tunnel State Park

The nighttime exodus of millions of bats ranks as one of Texas finest natural wonders. In season, Old Tunnel State Park, located in the heart of Texas Hill Country, provides prime bat viewing. If you plan a summer visit to Fredericksburg, Texas, be sure to reserve an evening for the bats.

Mexican Free-tailed Bats

Unlike their northern cousins, Mexican free-tailed bats do not hibernate in winter. Instead, these flying mammals spend time between Mexico in colder months and south Texas in warmer months. The bats arrive in Texas Hill Country around March and return to their winter homes in Mexico around October. Up to three million Mexican free-tailed and 3,000 cave myotis bats have repurposed the abandoned railway tunnel at Old Tunnel into their summer home.

The little Mexican free-tailed bat is less than five inches long and weighs about 14 grams (that’s just half an ounce), and are a tasty bite for hawks and owls. The bats emerge en masse to increase their odds of escaping predators flying outside the tunnel opening. The counter-clockwise emergence vortex serves the additional function of helping the bats to gain lift as bat bones are denser than those of birds.

Aerial River

At dusk, onlookers see a streaming black river flowing above the tree canopy as the little critters make their way south towards the Guadalupe River. The bats will swoop down to the river for a quick, in-flight drink of water and then fly to feeding grounds in farm fields as far as 100 miles away. The bats are insectivores, eating whatever nighttime insects they find. Their primary food are moths, and a Mexican free-tailed bat can consume as many as 40 in a night. Once full, the tiny creatures return to the tunnel to rest until the next evening feeding flight. Viewing a bat emergence is a must on any nature lover’s bucket list. My husband and I were transfixed in awe as the river of bats continued for almost fifteen minutes, and intrigued by the scent left in the bats’ wake. Yes, you can smell the bats! It’s a little like an umami scent.

Bat viewing tips

Old Tunnel has two viewing areas. Aligned with the tunnel entrance, the lower level is space limited and no children under four are allowed. The upper viewing area is also a wonderful option. Both areas require an advance reservation that can be made online at the Texas Parks and Wildlife website. Bats emerge most but not all nights. The mammals are fair-weather feeders and often stay put in the cave during rainy evenings. That makes sense as fewer insects are available during inclement nights. Docents were on site the night we visited. These volunteers are a wealth of information and source of great bat trivia.

Old Tunnel State Park

At a mere 16-acres, Old Tunnel is the smallest Texas State Park. The 920-foot tunnel, now home to our bats, was built at the beginning of the twentieth century to link Fredericksburg to Comfort by rail. The railroad venture didn’t pan out and the line was abandoned in the forties. In an effort to protect the bat colony, Texas Parks and Wildlife Department purchased the land in 1991 with the express purpose of protecting the bat colony. The area became a state park in 2012. The park has a mile-long trail that follows the old railroad bed. No camping is allowed at the park.

Alamo Springs Café

Why not have dinner before seeing the bats? Alamo Springs Café, adjacent to the park, claims to offer the best burger in Texas. It’s a funky café that looks like a house with a few too many additions on it. We ate there on a Saturday night and were treated to tunes from a local band. The café and patios are packed at dinner time, so be patient. The service is friendly and efficient. The burgers are great, but my favorite were the onion rings….awesome!

When You Go

Old Tunnel State Park is at 10619 Old San Antonio Road, Fredericksburg. Bat viewing for both the upper and lower areas requires an advance reservation. Bats don’t use alarm clocks, so you need to check the Old Tunnel hotline at (866) 978-2287 or check the park’s Facebook page to get the latest emergence time. Alamo Springs Café is at 107 Alamo Road. The café is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday through Sunday. There are also a few outdoor tables at Old Tunnel if you want to bring your own picnic.

Be careful driving home. The area is chocked full of deer, we almost hit a buck making our way back to Fredericksburg.

Tip

Frankie the Free-tailed Bat is a cute book for kids. It’s loaded with information about the bats. You can download a free copy courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife.

Dallas Arboretum Reopens

Dallas Arboretum Sculpture
Celebrating the Familiar at the Dallas Arboretum

How do you ramble in the midst of a pandemic? For me, it’s finding uncrowded outdoor spaces. Dallas summer heat adds to the challenge, but, with a little pre-planning, Dallas Arboretum suits. The quintessential garden reopened to the public June 1. Though some areas, like the Rory Meyer Children’s Adventure Garden remain closed, much of the Dallas Arboretum is open for a leisurely stroll and even a picnic. Best part, the garden is ablaze with color from blooming annuals.

Dallas Arboretum summer color
Summer annuals add bursts of color

What’s Changed

Pre-purchased tickets, procured by phone or online are needed for entrance …even for Arboretum members. The timed reservation allocates four hours garden admission to the ticketholder. I reserved online, printed my tickets at home, and swapped them at the entrance for color-coded wrist bands. While the garden recommends wearing masks, almost all visitors dispensed with face coverings once inside the grounds. Everyone was respectful of social distancing. Please note, however, masks are required in public restrooms.  

Not all gardens are open. The tram isn’t running. What is available is a mile loop around the garden. To prevent crowding, the trail is directional, with arrows and signage guiding visitors. I thought I’d find this too limiting. It wasn’t. The loop takes you along the entire perimeter of the Arboretum and includes the Woman’s Garden. Much of the route meanders through shade and past water features, a wonderful respite from the heat.

Seward Johnson Summer Sculpture

You won’t find the seasonal playhouses for children that graced the Dallas Arboretum in previous summers. What you will find are twenty-five, bronze statues from Seward Johnson’s Celebrating the Familiar. When I spied the first statue, I mistook it for an actual person. Johnson’s art are life-sized sculptures ‘dressed’ in painted bronze … almost like store manikins. Most had me taking another look to determine if it was a garden visitor or a Seward Johnson sculpture, like the young girl sitting on the park bench with a rabbit in her lap. The exhibit opens on June 22, though most of the sculptures were already in position during my visit this week.

Seward Johnson Celebrating the Familiar at the Dallas Arboretum
Seward Johnson – Celebrating the Familiar

Seward Johnson, grandson to a Johnson & Johnson founder, died at 89 this past March. His sculptures have been described as ‘hyperreal’ and some art critics consider them ‘kitsch.’ I found them delightful snippets of everyday life and a treat to discover during my garden walk.

Consider a Membership

Timing is everything. If you want to beat Dallas heat, the earlier in the day you visit, the more pleasant the experience. The Dallas Arboretum opens at 9 am. Through November, however, Arboretum members can reserve a 7 to 11 am admission ticket. The early entry option is a wonderful perk with even fewer people around, and best of all, less heat to contend with. My family’s favorite is early admission, walk, and then a breakfast picnic. Members have an additional option to enjoy a twilight garden walk, Thursdays from 4 to 8 pm.

Picnic

Unlike other formal gardens, the Dallas Arboretum encourages picnicking. Under the current reopening, dining locations are limited. I strongly urge bringing your own food and drink. There is a water refill station at the main entrance, but other drinking fountains are not available. During our visit, we found folks using benches, ubiquitously located along the pathway, for al fresco dining. Magnolia Glade offers tables under massive trees. My favorite spot, the cabanas at Three Sisters Overlook, even has rotating fans to cool you off.

Three Sisters Overlook

When you go The Dallas Arboretum is located at 8525 Garland Road, Dallas.  Garden admission is daily 9 am to 5 pm. Pre-purchase tickets by phone at (214) 515-6615 or online. Seward Johnson’s Celebrating the Familiar will be on display June 22 through July 17. As Dallas Arboretum reopens to the public, expect changes. Please consult their website for the latest updates and guidance. Virtual garden tours are also available right from your home computer.