Category Archives: Road Trip

National Museum of the Pacific War

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The National Museum of the Pacific War is a must see for World War II history buffs and veterans’ families. This world class museum is located not in Pearl Harbor, but in landlocked Fredericksburg, Texas. Surprising, until you learn that Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz was born in this Texas Hill Country town.

The museum boasts an expansive, six-acre campus in the heart of Fredericksburg. The Pacific wartime story is deftly told in artifacts, memorabilia, photographs, and video. Unlike other World War II museums, the National Museum of the Pacific War devotes considerable exhibit space to set the historic stage describing Russian, Japanese, Chinese, and American actions that led to war’s outbreak.

George H. W. Bush Gallery

From the famous the Doolittle Raid to the obscure Operation “Good Time,” each Pacific campaign is described in exacting detail. “Toe Nail” gets my vote for the most interesting titled operation. News clips interspersed with veteran interviews describe actual battles.  Diaries, uniforms, pictures, propaganda posters are all there. This multi-media approach makes what would otherwise be a history lesson into an emotion-packed, personal experience. And touch-screens allow visitors to learn even more.

In addition to smaller artifacts, the National Museum of the Pacific War houses large items like a Wildcat F4F and the two-man Japanese midget submarine grounded on Oahu following the Pearl Harbor attack. For Oppenheimer movie fans, “Little Boy” bomb casing is part of the museum’s permanent collection.

The Admiral Nimitz Gallery

Recently renovated and expanded in 2020, the Admiral Nimitz Gallery tells the story of the World War II Commander of the Pacific Fleet, Chester Nimitz. Learn how a Fredericksburg farm boy who wanted to go to West Point became one of our nation’s greatest admirals.

Pacific Combat Zone

The Pacific Combat Zone, located a few blocks from the main museum campus, is the site of a PT boat exhibit. The museum also offers living history programs here. Reenactments highlight Medal of Honor recipients and give visitors an appreciation of the heroism of Sailors and Marines in the Pacific. A schedule for the reenactments can be found on the museum’s events page. Please note that reenactments do involve explosions and simulated fire, and may not be appropriate for all visitors.

Memorial Courtyard

Maybe it’s because so many of our World War II veterans are no longer with us. Whatever the reason, I found the Memorial Courtyard particularly poignant. This outdoor area is framed by a limestone wall covered in commemorative plaques honoring wartime veterans. Families and veteran groups sponsored the plaques and brick pavers here. It’s a reminder, lest we forget, of the men and women veterans who sacrificed so much.

The National Museum of the Pacific War provides an objective, and sometimes jarring, experience of the Pacific theater in wartime. It’s a story filled with sacrifice, heroism, and even brutality. Museums like the National Museum of the Pacific War keep history and the lessons it teaches alive so we do not repeat the mistakes of the past. 

When You Go

The National Museum of the Pacific War is located at 311 East Austin Street in Fredericksburg. The museum is open 9 am to 5 pm Wednesday through Monday (closed Tuesdays). Allow at least three hours for your visit. There is an admission charge. Museum exhibits are appropriate for older children. While the main exhibits may not interest young kids, the museum does offer a free exhibit, Children on the Homefront. Designed for elementary-aged children, the exhibits depict what life would have been like for kids during the war years. 

For those wanting to continue their World War II experience, I recommend a stay at the Hangar Hotel (155 Airport Road, Fredericksburg). A converted hangar on the edge of Gillespie County Airport houses this elegantly simple hotel. Staying at the Hangar Hotel is like stepping back in time to a World War II Bachelor Officer Quarters. Rooms are furnished in rusty reds, mossy greens and rich browns. There is even a green, wool army blanket on the bed. The room television is the only concession to the twenty-first century.  Advance reservations are a must at the Hangar Hotel.

Everybody is Somebody in Luckenbach

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Is Luckenbach a town, a dance hall, or a tourist attraction? Truth be told, it’s a little of all three. There is a general store and post office; a dance hall, consistently recognized as one of Texas’ top ten; and a kitschy landmark. Transcending all generalizations, Luckenbach is a county music gathering place.

We visited Luckenbach the afternoon before a music festival. Dozens of folks prepared for the thousands arriving later in the day. Directed to a field to park, we made our way past weathered-wood ticket booths and onto the grounds. To our left, nailed to a fence, we found the Luckenbach logo and infamous population sign, a popular photo spot. The population sign, Population 3, often goes missing, stolen by tourists wanting more than a picture to remind them of their visit. Leave the sign in place and buy your souvenirs from the general store, please.

Courtyard and outdoor stage

Behind the Luckenbach store you’ll find a courtyard with picnic tables, an outdoor stage, and a rooftop canopy formed by hundreds year-old oaks. This is the heart of the Luckenbach experience. The Picker Circle listed on Luckenbach’s calendar denotes free outdoor entertainment – offered most afternoons. Grab a beer and relax. Enjoy the music, dance, eat, and people watch.

I’m not sure what I enjoyed more – the music from the fiddler onstage or the diversity of people. Remember, Everybody is somebody in Luckenbach. Our fellow visitors included a septuagenarian couple swing dancing in newly purchased cowboy hats; weekend bikers in leathers and bandana doo-rags, and twenty-something women in Daisy Duke shorts and boots. It’s a relaxed, unpretentious vibe.

The Feed Lot serves typical hamburgers and hot dogs. To the left of the stage is a bar with a remarkable selection of beers, but bring cash (no credit cards).

Post office and hat shop

The post office is also the town general store. Here you get the flavor of a tourist spot with everything from t-shirts to drink ware to guitar picks all embossed with Luckenbach’s logo. With a nod to country music, you’ll also find a nice selection of country music CDs.

The Snail Creek Hat Company, located behind the store and next to the outdoor stage, offers a unique twist to the traditional western hat. Yes, you can buy the traditional felted hats, but the store specializes in the wide brim, palm leaf variety – half Panama and half cowboy hat.

History of Luckenbach

In the 1840s German farmers, including Jacob and August Luckenbach, settled the area. The town thrived with a cotton gin and dancehall until the turn of the twentieth century. The town declined in population and opportunity until the 1930s when the dancehall was rebuilt. That rebirth as short lived. By 1960, only about 50 people lived in Luckenbach. Modern day Luckenbach owes its reincarnation to John Russel (Hondo) Crouch. Hondo bought Luckenbach in 1971 and declared himself mayor of the town of three. A humorist and writer, he hosted a Luckenbach World Fair, a women-only chili cook off, and other quirky festivals. And it was Hondo who coined the phrase Everybody is somebody at Luckenbach. Waylon Jennings 1977 song, Luckenbach Texas, sealed the town’s fate as a national icon. Music legends like Willie Nelson and Lyle Lovett popularized the town as a country music destination.

If you go

Luckenbach is about 14 miles from Fredericksburg in Texas Hill Country. The physical address for your map app is 412 Luckenbach Town Loop, Fredericksburg. Most afternoons, you’ll find free country music entertainment on the outdoor stage. Because it is outdoors, weather may be a factor. The oak trees provide some cooling during hot Texas summers, though the ideal time to visit is in spring. Shows, festivals, and dances require tickets. Before you go, check the event calendar. The general store accepts credit cards, the outdoor bar does not.

 

Historic Washington State Park

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Historic Washington State Park transports visitors to the past when great western pioneers like Sam Houston and Davy Crockett traveled the Southwest Trail. It’s a hidden gem just twenty minutes off Interstate-30 in Arkansas.

Frontier history 

Originally just a supply depot along the Southwest Trail, Washington grew into a major town in the 1830’s. In its heyday, the town boasted sixteen doctors, as many lawyers, and three hotel keepers along with a host of craftsman and merchants – impressive for a frontier settlement.

Historic Washington State Park captures the town’s golden age — 1830 through 1880 — with its living history exhibits and reenactments. Over a dozen buildings have been restored including the 1836 Courthouse that served as Arkansas’ State Capital during the Civil War; a tavern purportedly where Houston, Crockett, and Austin planned the liberation of Texas from Mexico; Greek-Revival styled homes built in the mid 1800s; and even a log home circa 1835. Other buildings like the blacksmith shop are reconstructions.

The tour

The 1874 Hempstead County Courthouse houses the park visitor center. For a nominal fee visitors walk through town where costumed docents at each building bring history to life with stories of Washington’s past. Not all buildings are open each day, but you will be able to tour several of the historic structures.

  • The 1920 Print Museum is a favorite with its functioning antique printing press. First published in Washington in 1839 the Washington Telegraph is the oldest, continuously published weekly newspaper in Arkansas.
  • The legendary Bowie knife was made by Washington resident James Black, a silversmith, for frontiersman James Bowie. Tour the blacksmith to learn more.
  • Those interested in antique weapons will want to visit the B.W. Edwards Weapons Museum. Housed in the Old Bank Building, over 600 historic rifles and pistols are on display.
  • Other historic buildings provide visitors with a glimpse into everyday life. Homes of prominent Washington residents are furnished as they would have been in the mid 1800’s.

Allow at least three hours for the walking tour.

Annual highlights

A favorite time to visit the park is in March when thousands of naturalized jonquils create yellow flowering carpets throughout the town.  The park’s Jonquil Festival, a three-day event with craft fair, is in mid-March. Historic Washington State Park hosts several reenactments throughout the year including a Civil War weekend in November. And the park year culminates with its December Christmas and Candlelight weekends.

When you go

Historic Washington State Park is located eight miles northwest of Hope, Ark., on Highway 278. The park is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Before you leave the park, be sure to dine at Williams’ Tavern Restaurant. Located in an historic 1832 building, Williams’ Tavern serves southern food at affordable prices. The restaurant is on the grounds and open daily for lunch from 11 a.m. until 3 p.m.

Tip

For those wanting a longer visit, Hope offers numerous lodging options. Add nearby Crater of the Diamonds to your itinerary for a fun-packed weekend.

Cadillac Ranch

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Cadillac Ranch – things don’t get much quirkier than a farmer’s field with 10 car butts sticking in the air.Cadillac Ranch

Cadillac Ranch History

Well into its middle age, the 40 year-old art installation has morphed from avant-garde oddity to iconic roadside attraction. Ant Farm, the trio of Chip Lord, Doug Michels, and Hudson Marquez, created their strange art installation by burying Cadillac at an angle corresponding to that of the Great Pyramid of Giza. The cars look like an unfinished picket fence.

What inspired Ant Farm? The description for the “Cadillac Ranch 1974-1994” video suggests the art installation represents, “….comically subversive homage to the rise and fall of the tail-fin as an icon of postwar American consumer excess.”

Stanley Marsh 3, the wealthy patron who shelled out the cash for Cadillac Ranch, said in an Amarillo Globe News interview that the Cadillac symbolized a time, “…when we all thought we could hit the road, get a blonde, break the bank in Las Vegas, and be a movie star.”

Whether meant to be provocative or just fun, Cadillac Ranch continues to draw thousands each year.

Public Art Installation

Today’s Cadillac Ranch looks very different from the 1974 Ant Farm installation. To start with, Cadillac Ranch is at an entirely different location. It’s still in a farmer’s field, just two miles away from its original site. The installation had to be moved in 1997 as west Amarillo grew and developed.

Forty years of weathering has not been kind to the Cadillac. Bits of Cadillac (like a trunk lid) are missing from some cars. And, oh my, the colors. Each Cadillac benefits from hundreds of graffiti artists who pay homage to the site. The layers of paint look like a crazy sort of bondo on the autos. In fact, some cars likely have more paint than metal left.

Oddly, I found the effect of so many colors and graffiti artists enhances Cadillac Ranch’s appearance. The stunningly bright colors against the azure blue skyline makes for stunning photographs. Trash left behind by the installation’s visitors is the only detractor of this odd art piece.

When you go.

You can access Cadillac Ranch off Interstate 40 in Amarillo. Take the south frontage road between exits 60 and 62A. There are ample places to park on the road apron. Entry is through a metal fence. Bring spray paint (the brighter the colors, the better) if you want to try your hand at a little graffiti art. There are often half-used cans of paint also available. If you visit, please pick up and dispose of your trash.

 

Helium Monument in Amarillo

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I love quirky, Texas attractions. The Helium Monument in Amarillo is one oddity I can now check off my bucket list. Built in 1968 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the discovery Helium Monumentof helium, the Helium Monument is part monument and part time capsule.

Time Capsule

Supported by four slanted columns, the stainless steel structure reaches towards the sky. Filled with books, papers, and memorabilia from 1968; each hollowed column serves as a time capsule to be opened at different intervals. The first column was opened after 25 years in 1993. The remaining columns will be opened in 2018, 2068, and 2968. I’m singularly impressed that the final column won’t be opened for 1000 years! A bank passbook for $10 is in the 2968 column. In 1968, the $10 savings account earned four percent interest. You do the math. If the savings account continues to draw four percent interest over 1000 years, the $10 account will have grown to one quintillion dollars!

Why combine a helium monument with time capsules? Helium can be used to protect fragile documents, like the Declaration of Independence, from deteriorating. In the Helium Monument, helium pumped into each column replaced oxygen-rich air, further preserving the time capsule documents.

Helium Capital of the World

A monument to helium may seem strange. It is not so odd when you learn the Cliffside Gas Fields near Amarillo produce over 40 percent of the helium used in the US, lending credibility to Amarillo’s nickname as the Helium Capital of the World.

Helium is mined by super chilling natural gas 300 degrees. Operated by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), Cliffside Gas Fields began mining the element in the 1920s. Uncle Sam tried to get out of the helium business. However, attempts to privatize mining have not been wholly successful and the BLM continues to operate the Cliffside location under the Helium Stewardship Act of 2013. Helium is important for more than just party balloons. Today, helium plays a critical role in MRI operation, rocket fuel, cryogenics, and as a cooling medium in nuclear reactors.

When you go

The Helium Monument is located adjacent to the Don Harrington Discovery Center at 1200 Streit Drive, Amarillo. The monument is outside, so you can view it at any time. However, if you are traveling with children, be sure to also visit the Don Harrington Discovery Center. The discovery center is open Tuesday through Saturday (9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.), and Sunday (noon to 4:30 p.m.).