Old Tunnel State Park

The nighttime exodus of millions of bats ranks as one of Texas finest natural wonders. In season, Old Tunnel State Park, located in the heart of Texas Hill Country, provides prime bat viewing. If you plan a summer visit to Fredericksburg, Texas, be sure to reserve an evening for the bats.

Mexican Free-tailed Bats

Unlike their northern cousins, Mexican free-tailed bats do not hibernate in winter. Instead, these flying mammals spend time between Mexico in colder months and south Texas in warmer months. The bats arrive in Texas Hill Country around March and return to their winter homes in Mexico around October. Up to three million Mexican free-tailed and 3,000 cave myotis bats have repurposed the abandoned railway tunnel at Old Tunnel into their summer home.

The little Mexican free-tailed bat is less than five inches long and weighs about 14 grams (that’s just half an ounce), and are a tasty bite for hawks and owls. The bats emerge en masse to increase their odds of escaping predators flying outside the tunnel opening. The counter-clockwise emergence vortex serves the additional function of helping the bats to gain lift as bat bones are denser than those of birds.

Aerial River

At dusk, onlookers see a streaming black river flowing above the tree canopy as the little critters make their way south towards the Guadalupe River. The bats will swoop down to the river for a quick, in-flight drink of water and then fly to feeding grounds in farm fields as far as 100 miles away. The bats are insectivores, eating whatever nighttime insects they find. Their primary food are moths, and a Mexican free-tailed bat can consume as many as 40 in a night. Once full, the tiny creatures return to the tunnel to rest until the next evening feeding flight. Viewing a bat emergence is a must on any nature lover’s bucket list. My husband and I were transfixed in awe as the river of bats continued for almost fifteen minutes, and intrigued by the scent left in the bats’ wake. Yes, you can smell the bats! It’s a little like an umami scent.

Bat viewing tips

Old Tunnel has two viewing areas. Aligned with the tunnel entrance, the lower level is space limited and no children under four are allowed. The upper viewing area is also a wonderful option. Both areas require an advance reservation that can be made online at the Texas Parks and Wildlife website. Bats emerge most but not all nights. The mammals are fair-weather feeders and often stay put in the cave during rainy evenings. That makes sense as fewer insects are available during inclement nights. Docents were on site the night we visited. These volunteers are a wealth of information and source of great bat trivia.

Old Tunnel State Park

At a mere 16-acres, Old Tunnel is the smallest Texas State Park. The 920-foot tunnel, now home to our bats, was built at the beginning of the twentieth century to link Fredericksburg to Comfort by rail. The railroad venture didn’t pan out and the line was abandoned in the forties. In an effort to protect the bat colony, Texas Parks and Wildlife Department purchased the land in 1991 with the express purpose of protecting the bat colony. The area became a state park in 2012. The park has a mile-long trail that follows the old railroad bed. No camping is allowed at the park.

Alamo Springs Café

Why not have dinner before seeing the bats? Alamo Springs Café, adjacent to the park, claims to offer the best burger in Texas. It’s a funky café that looks like a house with a few too many additions on it. We ate there on a Saturday night and were treated to tunes from a local band. The café and patios are packed at dinner time, so be patient. The service is friendly and efficient. The burgers are great, but my favorite were the onion rings….awesome!

When You Go

Old Tunnel State Park is at 10619 Old San Antonio Road, Fredericksburg. Bat viewing for both the upper and lower areas requires an advance reservation. Bats don’t use alarm clocks, so you need to check the Old Tunnel hotline at (866) 978-2287 or check the park’s Facebook page to get the latest emergence time. Alamo Springs Café is at 107 Alamo Road. The café is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday through Sunday. There are also a few outdoor tables at Old Tunnel if you want to bring your own picnic.

Be careful driving home. The area is chocked full of deer, we almost hit a buck making our way back to Fredericksburg.

Tip

Frankie the Free-tailed Bat is a cute book for kids. It’s loaded with information about the bats. You can download a free copy courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife.

National Museum of the Pacific War

The National Museum of the Pacific War is a must see for World War II history buffs and veterans’ families. This world class museum is located not in Pearl Harbor, but in landlocked Fredericksburg, Texas. Surprising, until you learn that Fleet Admiral Chester Nimitz was born in this Texas Hill Country town.

The museum boasts an expansive, six-acre campus in the heart of Fredericksburg. The Pacific wartime story is deftly told in artifacts, memorabilia, photographs, and video. Unlike other World War II museums, the National Museum of the Pacific War devotes considerable exhibit space to set the historic stage describing Russian, Japanese, Chinese, and American actions that led to war’s outbreak.

George H. W. Bush Gallery

From the famous the Doolittle Raid to the obscure Operation “Good Time,” each Pacific campaign is described in exacting detail. “Toe Nail” gets my vote for the most interesting titled operation. News clips interspersed with veteran interviews describe actual battles.  Diaries, uniforms, pictures, propaganda posters are all there. This multi-media approach makes what would otherwise be a history lesson into an emotion-packed, personal experience. And touch-screens allow visitors to learn even more.

In addition to smaller artifacts, the National Museum of the Pacific War houses large items like a Wildcat F4F and the two-man Japanese midget submarine grounded on Oahu following the Pearl Harbor attack. For Oppenheimer movie fans, “Little Boy” bomb casing is part of the museum’s permanent collection.

The Admiral Nimitz Gallery

Recently renovated and expanded in 2020, the Admiral Nimitz Gallery tells the story of the World War II Commander of the Pacific Fleet, Chester Nimitz. Learn how a Fredericksburg farm boy who wanted to go to West Point became one of our nation’s greatest admirals.

Pacific Combat Zone

The Pacific Combat Zone, located a few blocks from the main museum campus, is the site of a PT boat exhibit. The museum also offers living history programs here. Reenactments highlight Medal of Honor recipients and give visitors an appreciation of the heroism of Sailors and Marines in the Pacific. A schedule for the reenactments can be found on the museum’s events page. Please note that reenactments do involve explosions and simulated fire, and may not be appropriate for all visitors.

Memorial Courtyard

Maybe it’s because so many of our World War II veterans are no longer with us. Whatever the reason, I found the Memorial Courtyard particularly poignant. This outdoor area is framed by a limestone wall covered in commemorative plaques honoring wartime veterans. Families and veteran groups sponsored the plaques and brick pavers here. It’s a reminder, lest we forget, of the men and women veterans who sacrificed so much.

The National Museum of the Pacific War provides an objective, and sometimes jarring, experience of the Pacific theater in wartime. It’s a story filled with sacrifice, heroism, and even brutality. Museums like the National Museum of the Pacific War keep history and the lessons it teaches alive so we do not repeat the mistakes of the past. 

When You Go

The National Museum of the Pacific War is located at 311 East Austin Street in Fredericksburg. The museum is open 9 am to 5 pm Wednesday through Monday (closed Tuesdays). Allow at least three hours for your visit. There is an admission charge. Museum exhibits are appropriate for older children. While the main exhibits may not interest young kids, the museum does offer a free exhibit, Children on the Homefront. Designed for elementary-aged children, the exhibits depict what life would have been like for kids during the war years. 

For those wanting to continue their World War II experience, I recommend a stay at the Hangar Hotel (155 Airport Road, Fredericksburg). A converted hangar on the edge of Gillespie County Airport houses this elegantly simple hotel. Staying at the Hangar Hotel is like stepping back in time to a World War II Bachelor Officer Quarters. Rooms are furnished in rusty reds, mossy greens and rich browns. There is even a green, wool army blanket on the bed. The room television is the only concession to the twenty-first century.  Advance reservations are a must at the Hangar Hotel.

Hangar Hotel

Strains of Glenn Miller’s Moonlight Serenade softly compliment the evening’s last light as Hangar Hotelwe sip cocktails on the veranda.  The sun appears as a glowing orange orb resting on the hilltops as a Cessna makes its landing approach on the airfield in front of us.  Now, Chattanooga Choo Choo entertains us with its upbeat melody.  Closing our eyes, we travel decades into the past.  Such is the mood set by a stay at the Hangar Hotel in Fredericksburg.

Officers’ Club. Staying at the Hangar Hotel is like stepping back in time to a Bachelor Officer Quarters from World War II.  A converted hangar on the edge of Gillespie County Airport houses this elegantly simple hotel.  Large ceiling fans, antique switchboard, and palm trees greet guests as they check in.  Off the hotel lobby is the Officer’s Club, open weekends.   Rooms are furnished in rusty reds, mossy greens and rich browns.  Weathered leather chairs, vintage style dresser and armoire furnish the room.  Every detail, from drapery pattern to reproduction phone, transports you back in time.  The black and white tiled bathroom completes the setting.  There is even a green, wool army blanket on the bed.  The room television is the only concession to the 21st century.

Details. The Hangar Hotel is located at 155 Airport Road, Fredericksburg. Room rates begin at $119 (weekdays) and $179 (weekends). The hotel offers senior (over 65) and military discounts.  To make a reservation, call (830) 997-9990 or visit the hotel website at hangarhotel.com.