Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge Birding

Snow Geese at Hagerman

Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge, located on the Central Flyway, hosts up to 30,000 migratory birds each year. Just west of Sherman, the refuge provides wetland habitat for thousands of Canada, snow, and Ross geese along with ducks, heron, and songbirds. Late fall through winter offers prime viewing for birds wintering in our area.

North Texas Birding Bonanza

Over 300 species of birds reside or migrate through the refuge. Cormorant troll the waterways their long necks like submarine periscopes. Ducks such as northern shoveler paddle in ponds, and shorebirds from stilts to sandpipers are found along the Lake Texoma shoreline. My favorite is the great blue heron whose flight reminds me of a prehistoric pterodactyl. In wooded areas you’ll find wrens, titmice, and woodpeckers. Lucky birders may be rewarded with rare glimpses of migratory ibis, stork, and spoonbill. Most notably, bald eagle have returned to the refuge.

Unique Bird Blinds

One of my favorite things about Hagerman is the opportunity to bird by car. The refuge has a four-mile, self-guided auto tour. Ideal for birders with limited mobility, the driving route gets you close to thousands of birds without ever leaving the car. The best part, your parked vehicle serves as an effective birding blind!

An audio auto tour is available for cell phone users. No phone, no problem. The tour is also available on CD from the visitors’ center. The auto tour includes six stops with information about Hagerman’s history and wildlife.

Hagerman Tram Tours

The Wildlife Explorer, a ten-person, open-air tram, is in operation for small group tours of the refuge every Saturday and Sunday at 2 pm. The tours are free but, due to space restrictions, require advance registration. Friends of Hagerman volunteers lead the tours. Other tram tours can be arranged in advance by contacting Friends of Hagerman.

Explore on foot

In addition to the driving route, the refuge sports miles of hiking trails. You’ll find additional bird species along with many local animals like armadillo, rabbit, fox, and squirrel; and the occasional coyote, bobcat, and feral pig. Trails cover a variety of habitat from prairie to marsh to woodland. The Meadow Pond trail is along an unpaved service road that is an easy hike for families with small children. For those wishing a hike on dirt trail, I recommend Haller’s Haven trail. It’s on the north end of the refuge and offers a longer loop footpath through woodland.

Enjoy your lunch at one of the many picnic areas scattered throughout the refuge.

Counting Birds

Every Tuesday, volunteers conduct a day-long bird count. Anyone, novice or expert, can ride with the bird counters on a space available basis. A recent Tuesday count tallied 76 different species. This weekly bird count is reported to Cornell Lab on Ornithology for research use. What makes Hagerman so unique is the fact that the bird census has been going on for over 50 years!

Other bird counts include first Saturday sunrise events affectionately dubbed The Little Sit.  A master naturalist leads the count that starts 30-minutes before sunrise. This is a great opportunity for birders of all skill levels to get tips from the experts. Advance registration is encouraged but not required. Participants to Little Sits should bring their own binoculars and camp chairs.

Finally the Christmas Bird Count will happen at the refuge on December 16 this year. All skill levels are welcome. In addition to counting birds on the refuge, you can participate in the annual event right at home by contacting the Audubon Society.

Hagerman Second Saturday

On the second Saturday of most months, a master naturalist or other wildlife expert presents a free program open to the public. Most recently, I attended a talk on waterfowl, ducks and geese, at Hagerman. Being a true novice, I found the lecture helpful with its tips on bird identification. Birds aren’t the only topics covered. An upcoming talk will discuss frogs and past talks have included information about the area’s history.

Kids at Hagerman

Friends of Hagerman are active in producing programs for children under the moniker of The Refuge Rocks. There is a Junior Wildlife Nature Journal available at the visitors’ center. The pamphlet has a number of activities to keep youngsters engaged like a scavenger hunt and backyard birding notes. Programs designed for children are available most months and tie thematically to the season like the November program Talkin’ Turkey. What a great way to introduce children to a life-long appreciation of nature. 

When You Go

Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge (6465 Refuge Road, Sherman) is a day use facility open from sunrise to sunset. Visit the Friends of Hagerman website for information on free tours and talks at the refuge.

Buggy Barn Museum in Blanco

I love unique and quirky. You’ll get both at the Buggy Barn Museum in Blanco.

Buggy Barn Founder

Located in the heart of Texas Hill Country, the museum and Pine Moore Old West Town are the brainchild of Dennis Moore, Blanco resident and trucking company owner. Moore began collecting buggies over a dozen years ago, at first renting them for proms and weddings. Bit by the buggy bug, his collection has swelled to over 270 of the horse-drawn conveyances. According to Moore, he has the second largest collection of buggies in the United States, and the largest collection open to the public.

Buggy Barn Museum

It’s an incredible assemblage. There’s an elegant Czechoslovakian funeral carriage and dozens of Studebakers. Who knew Studebaker made wagons before cars? After the Civil War, Studebaker was the largest producer of horse-drawn vehicles in the world. The museum has dozens of these Studebaker originals. It’s a bit overwhelming with buggies and wagons everywhere. Placards provide the carriage’s pedigree: when built, by whom, and for what purpose. Some have a famous lineage, having appeared in such films as Abraham Lincoln, Vampire Hunter. From the practical buckboard wagon to the opulent coach, you see it all at the Buggy Barn Museum.

Pine Moore Old West Town

The Buggy Barn Museum, while impressive, is only a fraction of what you’ll find here. There is an entire Old West town. Well, not old, but a new, Old West town set. Pine Moore has been used for filming movies and music videos. You can rent the town for functions or use the church for your wedding. It’s really amazing. Pine Moore has a Texas Rangers building complete with jail cell, a saloon, and even a dentist/barber building.

Prop Master’s Dream

Pine Moore buildings are chocked full of vintage furniture and western gear. There are hundreds of saddles, wood stoves, butter churns, and ice boxes. The Buggy Barn Museum is one-stop shopping for anyone staging an American West production. All, including the buggies and wagons, are available for rent. For me, it was fascinating to go through the buildings and see all the everyday fixtures of frontier life.

The Buggy Barn Museum is not the typical museum. The massive collection is organized, but not like a standard museum. There are not exhibits, in the classic sense. But there is an amazing collection of western gear, carriages, wagons, and homestead furnishings.

When You Go

Buggy Barn Museum (1915 Main Street) is open Monday through Saturday. Admission is charged. There isn’t a café associated with the museum, but downtown Blanco is just a mile away. The Redbud Café (410 Fourth Street) is an excellent place for lunch. It’s open 10 am to 3 pm, later on Friday and Saturday.

Fun Fact: What is the difference between a buggy and a wagon? Buggy is normally a light two- or four-wheeled carriage, whereas a wagon is a heavy transport vehicle.

Old Tunnel State Park

The nighttime exodus of millions of bats ranks as one of Texas finest natural wonders. In season, Old Tunnel State Park, located in the heart of Texas Hill Country, provides prime bat viewing. If you plan a summer visit to Fredericksburg, Texas, be sure to reserve an evening for the bats.

Mexican Free-tailed Bats

Unlike their northern cousins, Mexican free-tailed bats do not hibernate in winter. Instead, these flying mammals spend time between Mexico in colder months and south Texas in warmer months. The bats arrive in Texas Hill Country around March and return to their winter homes in Mexico around October. Up to three million Mexican free-tailed and 3,000 cave myotis bats have repurposed the abandoned railway tunnel at Old Tunnel into their summer home.

The little Mexican free-tailed bat is less than five inches long and weighs about 14 grams (that’s just half an ounce), and are a tasty bite for hawks and owls. The bats emerge en masse to increase their odds of escaping predators flying outside the tunnel opening. The counter-clockwise emergence vortex serves the additional function of helping the bats to gain lift as bat bones are denser than those of birds.

Aerial River

At dusk, onlookers see a streaming black river flowing above the tree canopy as the little critters make their way south towards the Guadalupe River. The bats will swoop down to the river for a quick, in-flight drink of water and then fly to feeding grounds in farm fields as far as 100 miles away. The bats are insectivores, eating whatever nighttime insects they find. Their primary food are moths, and a Mexican free-tailed bat can consume as many as 40 in a night. Once full, the tiny creatures return to the tunnel to rest until the next evening feeding flight. Viewing a bat emergence is a must on any nature lover’s bucket list. My husband and I were transfixed in awe as the river of bats continued for almost fifteen minutes, and intrigued by the scent left in the bats’ wake. Yes, you can smell the bats! It’s a little like an umami scent.

Bat viewing tips

Old Tunnel has two viewing areas. Aligned with the tunnel entrance, the lower level is space limited and no children under four are allowed. The upper viewing area is also a wonderful option. Both areas require an advance reservation that can be made online at the Texas Parks and Wildlife website. Bats emerge most but not all nights. The mammals are fair-weather feeders and often stay put in the cave during rainy evenings. That makes sense as fewer insects are available during inclement nights. Docents were on site the night we visited. These volunteers are a wealth of information and source of great bat trivia.

Old Tunnel State Park

At a mere 16-acres, Old Tunnel is the smallest Texas State Park. The 920-foot tunnel, now home to our bats, was built at the beginning of the twentieth century to link Fredericksburg to Comfort by rail. The railroad venture didn’t pan out and the line was abandoned in the forties. In an effort to protect the bat colony, Texas Parks and Wildlife Department purchased the land in 1991 with the express purpose of protecting the bat colony. The area became a state park in 2012. The park has a mile-long trail that follows the old railroad bed. No camping is allowed at the park.

Alamo Springs Café

Why not have dinner before seeing the bats? Alamo Springs Café, adjacent to the park, claims to offer the best burger in Texas. It’s a funky café that looks like a house with a few too many additions on it. We ate there on a Saturday night and were treated to tunes from a local band. The café and patios are packed at dinner time, so be patient. The service is friendly and efficient. The burgers are great, but my favorite were the onion rings….awesome!

When You Go

Old Tunnel State Park is at 10619 Old San Antonio Road, Fredericksburg. Bat viewing for both the upper and lower areas requires an advance reservation. Bats don’t use alarm clocks, so you need to check the Old Tunnel hotline at (866) 978-2287 or check the park’s Facebook page to get the latest emergence time. Alamo Springs Café is at 107 Alamo Road. The café is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thursday through Sunday. There are also a few outdoor tables at Old Tunnel if you want to bring your own picnic.

Be careful driving home. The area is chocked full of deer, we almost hit a buck making our way back to Fredericksburg.

Tip

Frankie the Free-tailed Bat is a cute book for kids. It’s loaded with information about the bats. You can download a free copy courtesy of Texas Parks and Wildlife.

Hike The Heard

The Heard Wood Duck Trail
The Heard Natural History Museum and Wildlife Sanctuary Wood Duck Trail

The Heard Natural History Museum and Wildlife Sanctuary in McKinney offers more than just a gorgeous natural setting for local hikes. During winter months, youngsters will delight in the exhibit of life-sized dinosaurs and naturalists of all ages will enjoy the year round museum exhibits. And did I mention the hiking trails through diverse habitats from forest to prairie to wetland?

Dinosaurs Live

A thunderous roar shatters the forest stillness. Beware. Beasts not seen for millions of years stalk the Heard Natural History Museum and Wildlife Sanctuary. Young paleontologists will find Brachiosaurus, Diabloceratops, Dilophosaurus, and the infamous Tyrannosaurus Rex roaming the trails at the sanctuary. View ten different dinosaurs along a loop trail through forest and meadow. These life-sized dinosaur replicas roar and move delighting young dinosaur enthusiasts.

North Texas Ramblings - Dinosaurs Live Heard Natural Science Museum
Dinosaurs Live at The Heard

Billings Production in Allen makes the animatronic creatures. The Heard dinosaurs are part of over 200 Billings’ dinosaurs found at zoos and museums throughout North American. The robotic dinosaurs are uniquely adapted to operate outdoors. A hinged steel structure within the fabricated body allows dinosaur heads and limbs to move. A computer program further enhances dinosaur movements making these monstrous creatures look and act almost real — Jurassic Park Texas style. The Heard’s fifteenth annual Dinosaurs Live continues through February 15.

Hike The Heard

While the dinosaurs draw the crowds, there is more to The Heard. Five hiking trails offer differing habitats to explore.

Bluestem and Wood Duck

We live in an ecoregion known as Blackland Prairie running from the Red River to San Antonio. Farming, ranching, and urbanization has decimated the original prairie land of tall grasses to just one percent of its original acreage. The Heard has restored several meadow-sized areas to prairie by careful cultivation of indigenousness grasses and plants. Bluestem trail gets its name from one of these clumping prairie grasses. The trail is one mile out and back, and easy walking.

Bluestem joins with Wood Duck to offer a completely different wetland habitat. The Wood Duck boardwalk takes you on a loop over shallow water and in among flooded trees. During summer months you’ll find turtles and snakes galore sunning themselves on fallen trees. We even found a few confused turtles out soaking up rays from a warmer than normal January sun. Across from the boardwalk, egrets often use the wetland for their rookeries. Combining Bluestem and Wood Duck trails, gives you a pleasant two-mile hike.

Hoot Owl

Located at the lower level of the museum, you’ll find the trailhead for Hoot Owl. The loop takes you through forest to the highest elevation at the sanctuary. At the overlook, you get a glimpse of Texas from before the dinosaurs when our region was covered by an ancient inland sea. The soil all around the overlook is white and part of the geological formation called Austin Chalk formed by long-dead sea creatures.

Hikers descend from the overlook into older forest of elm and oak. At the bottom of Hoot Owl, is the oldest tree on the sanctuary, a great Burr oak that has been core dated at over 230 years old. The Hoot Owl trail is a mile loop, but a more moderate hike due to changes in elevation.

Animals of the World

After your hike, check out the Animals of the World outdoor exhibit. The Heard houses a small number of native and exotic animals. Many exhibit animals imprinted with humans and cannot be released into the wild. Seized from an illegal animal breeder, some animals found new homes at the wildlife sanctuary. There are deer, bobcat, fox, and capybara, the world’s largest rodents. An albino raccoon found a home here too. My favorite are the bobcat brothers. These two were rescued by a farmer from a fire. The farmer brought the small kits to a rehabilitation center. The bobcat brothers recovered from their burns, but spent too much time with humans to be released back into the wild. The ‘boys’ are beautiful cats. During colder winter months, some of the exhibit animals, like the lemurs, are housed inside the museum.

When You Go

The Heard Natural History Museum and Wildlife Sanctuary is open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m., and on Sunday from 1 until 5 p.m. Pets are not allowed in the sanctuary and there is an admission fee. The trails around Dinosaurs Live are accessible with a stroller, however all trails within the sanctuary are on natural, unpaved surfaces — challenging for wheel chairs and strollers. Picnic areas are available. Restrooms are inside the main building. The Heard Natural History Museum and Wildlife Sanctuary is at 1 Nature Place in McKinney.

Pandemic Impact

The Heard outdoor and indoor exhibits are open, however, masks are required throughout the sanctuary. Trails are narrow and there is enough crossing traffic, that masks are needed even when hiking. Because the dinosaurs draw so many families, you may want to consider a visit during the weekdays when trails are less crowded.

Big Orange Pumpkin Farm

Preston Trails Farm

It’s pumpkin time! If you are looking for a Fall family outing, check out The Big Orange Pumpkin Farm at Preston Trail Farms. Located in rural Gunter, a trip to the farm makes for a relaxed, low-key afternoon in the country.

More than a pumpkin patch

The Big Orange Pumpkin Farm has a little something for everyone. Of course, you’ll find the requisite furrowed field with small pumpkins positioned along the rows. Ah, but there is so much more.

Petting zoo

Preston Trails Farm petting zoo

My personal favorite is the petting zoo with its cattle (including longhorns), sheep, and goats. Your admission includes a small sack of feed, all you need to make close friends of the animal kind. Unlike other petting zoos, you don’t go into the livestock enclosures but feed the begging goats at the fence. This worked much better for my younger grandkids. The fence barrier kept the farm critters from surrounding and overwhelming the little kids. If you haven’t seen a longhorn cow up close and personal, here’s your chance.

Hayride and maze

A farm tractor pulls several flatbeds with hay bale seating for you ride. The course is just around the farm perimeter, but there’s more. Be sure to read the whiteboards posted along the track, as they tell a clever little story about Farmer Rick. As you round the last curve of the route you’ll discover the fate of the missing farmer.

The maze, created from bales and rolls of hay was surprisingly difficult. There are enough dead ends and crazy twists to give maze runners a challenge. Not far from the maze are several wooden sawhorses where older kids (and adults) can practice their lasso skills. And on weekends, the kiddos can ride the farm train, a tractor-pulled train of barrel cars.

Photo op

Be sure to bring your camera. Scattered throughout the grounds, family photo opportunities abound. There are hay rolls painted as pigs and pumpkins, great wooden cutouts to stick your face through, and picturesque old farm equipment. And of course … there are pumpkins!

Preston Trail Farms

The whole pumpkin patch experience is behind Preston Trail Farms, a year-round general store. It’s a cross between a feed and hardware store, just like the ones I remember from my youth. The general store even has three different kiddie rides out front, the type that used to be in front of grocery stores, in this case a mechanical horse, longhorn, and two-seater carousel.  

Tender Smokehouse is a small restaurant, is tucked into one corner of the store. The smokehouse has a limited menu serving breakfast tacos and BBQ sandwiches and banana pudding.

Once pumpkin season passes, you can shop the store, grab lunch at Tender Smokehouse, and enjoy the year-round petting zoo out back.

COVID-19 precautions

The Big Orange Pumpkin Farm encourages mask wearing in all places. While we were there, about half the folks wore masks. There are cute signs all throughout encouraging six-foot distancing and the hayride seating also encourages distancing. I’d suggest visiting the farm during the weekdays or early in the morning to avoid crowds.

When you go

Preston Trails Farm (15102 Preston Road) is located in Gunter. Admission to the farm is $10 for all over the age of two. Your admission includes a small bag of food for the petting zoo. On weekdays your admission also includes a small pumpkin. On weekends, you pay for pumpkins in the store. The Big Orange Pumpkin Farm is open seven days a week now until November 25. Hours are 8 am to 8 pm.

History Trivia Fact. Preston Trail Farms and the Big Orange Pumpkin Farm are on the old Shawnee Trail cattle drive route.